Discovery Sport Forum banner
101 - 120 of 136 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Barnsh said:
You need to reset all the windows after a battery change

Open each window
Close the window fully.
Release the switch. Then Lift the switch to the close position and hold for 2 seconds
Repeat the procedure on each window.
Thanks @Barnsh had that after my replacement. Now sorted, cheers &#x1f44d-1f3fb;
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Just had exactly the same low battery voltage alarm - I drove 15 miles and also left engine running for another 10 minutes - 40 minutes in total and still the same message.
Am now currently waiting for Land Rover Assistance - ETA 1400 - 1600. :
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
landrovernut said:
Just had exactly the same low battery voltage alarm - I drove 15 miles and also left engine running for another 10 minutes - 40 minutes in total and still the same message.
Am now currently waiting for Land Rover Assistance - ETA 1400 - 1600. :
Why not just plug it into a charger?
There's no reason to assume you have a fault - just a low battery. Pop it on charge and leave it 12 hours or more. Pretty sure it'll be fine then.
The warning is a little sensitive I suspect but better that than leave you stranded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi everyone,

Just bought a F21 and thinking of replacing the battery myself. Is there a guide that tells/shows you which bolts to remove to replace the battery and in what order should the wiring be disconnected and reconnected. The battery.pdf is very vague for me as I can't ID the cables.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Had this "low battery - please start engine" fir couple of years now. Lockdown doesn't help cis not doing ghe miles needed to keep battery topped up. Just put battery on charge for few hours each week or get a battery conditioner & all will be well. The sensir serms to be a bit twitchy & sends the alarm even if the volts are over 12.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
Eighty3 said:
Hi everyone,

Just bought a F21 and thinking of replacing the battery myself. Is there a guide that tells/shows you which bolts to remove to replace the battery and in what order should the wiring be disconnected and reconnected. The battery.pdf is very vague for me as I can't ID the cables.
I would recommend you go to any battery reseller and for a little extra cash have them do it for you. You seem wary of doing it so save your time and your back muscles. Most Auto Clubs will also come to your home and do the change for you.

Not sure how recycling works in your neck of the woods but in my area if the shop installs the battery they also take care of recycling the old battery as well.

Hmm reminds me I should go and put the Old CTEK on my battery today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
The MY20 mhev manual says that the battery has to be removed from the vehicle before charging - and this has to be done at a dealer's workshop. Surely I don't have to go to and pay a dealer to recharge my battery? Due to current lockdown I am not doing my usual mileage and the 3 minute warning is coming up!
Anyone tried recharging battery in situ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
In over 50 years of driving never have removed battery prior to charging. My CTEK leads are connected directly to the battery posts despite all the recomendations on the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Canuk said:
In over 50 years of driving never have removed battery prior to charging. My CTEK leads are connected directly to the battery posts despite all the recomendations on the forum.
Plugged the Ctek into the Jag last week and just haven't had cause to use it so it just sat there, connected up, for a week. Swapped it over to the DS this morning. With the Ctek quick connectors it's a 30 second job, so whilst the DS has probably done as much as 5 miles over the last fortnight, that was over 3-4 separate stop-start trips. With lock down, neither car is getting much use at the moment so I've just been swapping back and forth.

The recommendations wrt not connecting to battery posts is basically irrelevant these days, especially if you use a Ctek setup. It stems from the idea that combustible gas may collect around the battery and a spark, triggered when you connect to the battery posts may ignite it.
Well, firstly, the chances of the gas collecting, in such an open area are pretty slim, and where it is a possibility, most modern cars/batteries have gas pipes venting elsewhere, so no gas. Then there's the fact that if you use a quick connector, such as the Ctek, you're connecting away from the battery anyway, in a spark free connector, and these chargers aren't powered up until the battery is connected so no spark.
So it probably still makes some sense with jump leads in rare circumstances on older cars but as far as connecting a Ctek lead directly to the battery posts in your DS is concerned, that's just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
Canuk said:
In over 50 years of driving never have removed battery prior to charging. My CTEK leads are connected directly to the battery posts despite all the recomendations on the forum.
Likewise
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Help ... Anyone.

What is this with buying extra chargers "Got my Ctek charger and Mxs5.0"?

Am I missing something here (about the chargers above). I have a 2016 (66) Discovery Sport 180 SE Tec and am now getting "low Battery, Please start the engine" warnings - my Start/Stop has completely stopped and my tailgate sometimes fails to open (operates normally when the engine is running). I suspect that Land rover in their infinite wisdom has given us a poxy little battery just to get the product out of the door. I normally buy a new battery when I buy a car (never been able to afford a new one - also feel screwed over as the devalue as your drive out of the dealership). On this occasion I TRUSTED LJR to have something decent under the bonnet. My bad as they are just the same as all the others (makes that is).

So Do I trust Land rover to change my battery (I also want to ask if they would put a stronger battery in) or do I buy one myself and do the change myself?

You know when I call Land rover they wont let me speak to a techie about my problem - What are they hiding or is it such a closed circuit that it is a trade secret - my guess is they are milking it for the after sales screw-over.

Apologies if I sound a bit cynical but I am at the end of my tether with Land Rover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
603 Posts
You are very cynical and I am not entirely sure what you want.

The battery installed is an AGM, 80Ah, 800A. A high capacity and powerful battery. My OEM is a Varta F21 Silver Dynamic. If you care to look at your battery, no doubt you will find a similar branded, high capacity battery. Your battery is 5 years old and this is a natural point when you should consider replacing the battery. This is why you are having the battery warnings, the S/S not working and the tailgate issue. All battery voltage related. You can buy one and fit it yourself, or go with Halfords etc. or dealer. Entirely up to you.
To keep any car battery in good condition, using a battery charger every month is a good idea. It will prolong the life of your battery.

So, you can buy a battery charger (CTEK MX5 is a best buy) or a new battery. Entirely up to you. Where you buy it, is entirely up to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
Bingo1 said:
Help ... Anyone.

You know when I call Land rover they wont let me speak to a techie about my problem - What are they hiding or is it such a closed circuit that it is a trade secret - my guess is they are milking it for the after sales screw-over.

Apologies if I sound a bit cynical but I am at the end of my tether with Land Rover.
I can not envision having a mechanic leave the shop floor to give advise over the phone. Read the whole thread and you will find all the answers and advise you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I find the battery charger (Ctek MX 5.0 is optimum choice) almost a must to have, especially during this period and more, with these cars full of electronics.
I agree that after 5 years JLR suggest natural battery replacement. Either you decide to buy and replace the battery by yourself or not, I would recommend anyway to have the BMS calibrated in the process. It will help on the way for a better energy saving process on your car, while not in use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Morning all. I recently started getting the same 'Low battery, please start engine' message. 66 plate car that does mainly short journeys so not ideal for maintaining a long battery life I suspect.

Tried the take it on an hour plus journey a few times to try and clear and it did seem to work, and the start stop even worked a couple of times (a rare thing indeed!). And then back to getting the warning. Also tailgate stopped opening at times.

Having read this thread and given battery is four years old I decided to buy a new battery (Halfords, £167 including fitting). Strange thing was on the way there there was no low battery warning, but as soon as I got home with new battery fitted, I got the message again!! I also noted that the radio stations that were saved had been retained, but date and time needed resetting and some of the display settings had defaulted and needed resetting. Can't quite figure out why radio stations were not lost?

Anyway, I have now also followed the advice re the CTEK charger and new battery has gone to level 4 as I plugged it in, so not max as I understand it. Start / stop also has not worked yet. Will be interesting to see if the message stops showing and start / stop works if the battery gets up to level 7.

Thanks for all the helpful information in the previous 12 pages - very helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
If I was you, I would have first tried charging one full night the previous "old" battery with the Cteck charger purchased.

Anyway, I would recommend you to check production date of your new battery... is very strange that a new battery, just mounted on the car, shows you low battery level notification.
As a quick reminder, the battery charger should not be connected straight to the battery poles. Doing so it may damage or unbalance the BMS on the negative pole. Your charger negative should be applied to a ground point in the car, not directly to the battery negative pole.
One full day under the Cteck charging and you should be good to go.
Remember to charge one full night every 2-3 weeks, if not using car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hello,

I'm also getting the dreaded message. I've had LR Assist round and they said the battery and alternator are fine, it's down to not driving it enough. However, even after a few longer drives (over an hour, less than three) the message still showed up. Sometimes immediately after stopping the engine, other times after a day or so. I invested in a CTEK MSX5.0 charger and let it run its cycle until it showed the battery as fully charged. 12 hours later and the low battery message is back.

Any clues what else I can check? Or is it time to book it in?

Cheers,
Chris.
 
101 - 120 of 136 Posts
Top