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Changing Engine Oil

87K views 70 replies 31 participants last post by  Past master  
#1 ·
Following the issues covered elsewhere on this forum users might find this increasingly more helpful and save themselves money at the stealers.


Moderators - grateful if you could sticky this near the top somewhere please.
 
#21 ·
Great video its good of you to take the time, Just a bit of information, In the comments below the video someone has said they used a oil filter tool 90mm 15 flutes, The DS 2.0L Diesel has a plastic oil filter housing which needs a 64mm 14 flutes oil filter tool.
 
#20 ·
Chippy said:
Well, I for one very much appreciate the effort that you've put into this and other videos. :D

Thanks a lot.
Cheers
Chippy,

Thanks.

To all other forum readers please don't make any further comments about my YouTube skills and clog up this forum post - we are all entitled to our opinions, however, please feel free to add comments (positive or negative) on my YouTube channel where the video is posted.

BFG
 
#18 ·
green genie said:
The oil change video at the top of this thread is actually extremely poor, (presumably the only one available at the moment) he backtracks several times, loosens the oil filter and then goes for a drive to warm the engine, (ok if your knowledgable, very risky if not) and then refers to the under body panel which has been previously removed! I spent 7 years as a training instructor and could point out many more failings. eg no safety warnings re oil , no use of gloves.

and NO I am not going to make a replacement video, Sorry,
Well, just as well I only made it to guide you through the process - its not a professional video, and I am not a professional instructor. I await you making your own video and showing us how its all done. :!: :!:
 
#17 ·
The oil change video at the top of this thread is actually extremely poor, (presumably the only one available at the moment) he backtracks several times, loosens the oil filter and then goes for a drive to warm the engine, (ok if your knowledgable, very risky if not) and then refers to the under body panel which has been previously removed! I spent 7 years as a training instructor and could point out many more failings. eg no safety warnings re oil , no use of gloves.

and NO I am not going to make a replacement video, Sorry,
 
#16 ·
The easiest oil filter change is when its contained in a steel container which is itself disposable, therefore no cleaning of container or changing of paper element, so cant agree with Magnet le Couchen on that, many older (non L.R. cars had that plus easier access).

6.5 litre is quote and charged for normally, as stated, from a bulk container so no doubt not actually measured by dealer.

There is also a "feel good" factor when collecting car from dealers, but this soon wears off, best to wait a few weeks to see if it lasts.
 
#15 ·
Andy131 said:
I wonder how much oil the dealer charges for?
The manual says 7 litres, in the video it's 5 litres to the bottom of the dipstick, so anther litre to the top seems reasonable.
I've just changed mine, the Shell oil came in 1 litre containers, and it took exactly 6 litres to the top of the dipstick.

Thanks very much for the service resetting procedure - worked a treat.

Agreed that it was one of the easiest oil changes I have done for many years - the Freelander 2 was guaranteed to rip the skin off your knuckles against the radiator.
I think the quoted capacity for a brand new un-used engine is what is quoted in the book. I think on my last oil change I took out just on 5 litres (well the dipstick was always only ever on half way from new) and put back in about 6 litres. Clearly some oil will remain in the engine as it can't all drain down, even if one leaves the plug off for half an hour or so. Of course if the stealer can claim an extra litre (say £15 to 20 per car for every car) then that's a good little earner, especially since they "buy-in" their oil in bulk in drums and not the rip off retail price we have to pay for 1 litres retail packs. I have just bought another 10 litres more of the Patronas Oil I used in the YouTube video I posted and the price is still €64 for 10 litres delivered (in Germany).

Just to let you know that I have now done 8000 km (5000 miles) since I changed the oil (to Patronas) and the counter is still at 12500 miles. No change in driving style and no software updates done to the car. The first change was done at 15000km (9000miles), so maybe the Patronas Oil dilutes less than the Castrol??
 
#14 ·
I wonder how much oil the dealer charges for?
The manual says 7 litres, in the video it's 5 litres to the bottom of the dipstick, so anther litre to the top seems reasonable.
I've just changed mine, the Shell oil came in 1 litre containers, and it took exactly 6 litres to the top of the dipstick.

Thanks very much for the service resetting procedure - worked a treat.

Agreed that it was one of the easiest oil changes I have done for many years - the Freelander 2 was guaranteed to rip the skin off your knuckles against the radiator.
 
#13 ·
Agree this is one of the easier oil changes you will ever do in a vehicle due to the cartridge type filter.

I purchased some filters online from here:

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/478593/5497/oil_filter_element___gasket____2_0l_diesel___discovery_sport___discovery_2017_on___evoque___range_rover_sport

They posted to Australia no problem.

Oil I sourced from a local supplier also. In spec Castrol professional.

Total cost per change is 78 AUD versus 615 AUD at the dealer. Would be cheaper in the UK also with a wider selection of oils and smaller postage costs.

Oil filter cap wrench is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4B8KIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or any 64mm x 14 flute
 
#11 ·
Update - I think I must be mad, but car does seem to run better right fresh oil! First thing if did within 20 mins was a full regen ( really smelly, hot and ticking), which it hasn't done since the service warning, wonder if it turns the wick down a bit when the oil if knackered?? (Sounds crazy I know).

It definitely idles smoother and full consumption is a bit better....

Also 200 miles driven and 200 miles off the service counter....
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the positive comments. I think if you can show how simple something is to do on a video then it gives people the confidence to try. I was inspired to change the clutch and dual mass flywheel via a YouTube video as it brought to life the Haynes manual.

This link gives the spec details for the oil: http://www.extranetpli.eu.petronas.com/dsp/pdf/eng/stec/1855_stec_ENG.pdf as you can see it meets the JLR spec.
 
#7 ·
MikeJohn said:
Very useful post thanks - as were the videos of the towbar removal and fitting!

One question.

How does the ECU know the oil has been changed - any reset procedure to tell it to reset counters etc?

Thanks

MIke
The way to reset has also been posted on a video as a sticky, a search should find that information
 
#6 ·
Very useful post thanks - as were the videos of the towbar removal and fitting!

One question.

How does the ECU know the oil has been changed - any reset procedure to tell it to reset counters etc?

Thanks

MIke
 
#5 ·
#4 ·
Given that the problem is diesel dilution of the oil, I wonder why the need to change the filter? Surely all you need to do is let out the old oil (and diesel) and pour in the new? Then change the filter as usual at main service. Am I missing something?
 
#3 ·
Filter part number is spot on! Sadly I mistakenly edited out how I unclipped and the pushed the new filter cartridges in - sorry!

TBH the oil us quoted as meeting the JLR spec so I went for it. I have to say if you put a drop between your fingers and tub them together it feels really really slick (unlike any other oil I have ever used), n fact a bit like butter for slipperiness!

Hopefully you will see it's an easy job to change it yourself if you can't be bothered to go to the dealer every few months and/or LR decide not to give you a free change.