Rear Brake pads discs

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Andy131
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Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2017 3:33 pm
Location: Manchester
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Rear Brake pads discs

Post by Andy131 » Tue Oct 01, 2019 11:30 pm

First an apology - the plan was to do one side to familiarise myself with the setup and take pictures doing the second side. It got dark and started raining long before I started the second side.

I will not bother with elf & safety - if your stupid enough to work under a 2 tonne car on a hydraulic jack without further support, then me warning you isn't going to make a jot of difference.

First thing, set the handbrake into service mode - this winds back the electric "pistons" and allows you to treat the system as any other simple disc brake. I use a Foxwell 510 Pro for servicing and diagnostics, more about this in a later post.

loosen the wheel nuts, starting with the locking wheel nut - leave it to the last and it can be VERY difficult to remove.
Jack up the vehicle - there is a position in the handbook, but I used the wishbone mounting/pivot point.
Put something solid uder the car - axle stand or at the very least the wheel you are about to take off.
Take off the wheel.
Take off the spring retainer - about 150mm long piece of wire.
lever back the caliper using a long screwdriver and push the hydraulic piston as far back as possible - no special tools, no winding back ... easy
Pop off the black plasic cap on the top slder pin, then undo the top slider pin - 7mm allen key.
Do not spend two hours attempting to undo the bottom slider pin with it's limited access.
If you have chosen the side with the wear indicator, then a sharp tug will remove it.
Just pivot the caliper backwards and you can pull out the pads.
If the discs are OK you are lucky and can igore the next few bits.
With the pads removed you can slide the caliper off the remaining slide pin - soooo much easier.
There are two bolts holding the pad carrier onto the hub, really easy with a 15mm ratchet ring spanner, especially if it has a fexible end.
So The carrier is now off, so a T50 TorX screw holds the disc to the hub, prevent the hub fron turning by bracing a length of bar between two studs and the floor.
The disc will need helping off with a hammer.
Clean the hub - I did mine with a Dremel, and applied a small amount of copper slip.
Fit new disc and nip up the Torx screw - do not feel tempted to apply loctite.
Refit the carrier, I used loctite on the carrier bolts.
put the caliper back on the lower slide pin.
Pads Only Continue HERE
Fit the pads in the carrier - the one with the spring goes inboard nearest the piston.
Swing the carrier over and fit the second slide pin.
fit the wear indicator wire/plug - it just pushes on.
Refit the balck plastic cap, if not you will have to take the wheel back off when you are clearing up and find it on the floor.
Refit the spring, by locating the lower pin and levering the top pin with long nosed pliers - sounds easy.
Refit the wheel.
Drop the car to the floor and fully tighten the wheel nuts.
Apply the foot brake.
Repeat for the other side - note only one side (right) has a wear indicator.

Using the diagnostic tool put the handbrake back into service - there is no calibration.
In theory you could start the engine, turn off the stop/start function, apply the footbrake and release the handbrake and work with the engine running. Do not attempt this method with the ignition on and the engine not running, as 10-20 minutes later the car will shut down AND APPLY THE HANDBRAKE AUTOMATICALLY.

Time taken - first side 2.5hours, 2nd side 40 minutes

Pads were very tired after 50k miles, but the discs were corroded badly, so genuine pads and not so genuine Britpart drilled and slotted discs for less than a third of the cost of the poor quality original discs.
2017 DS HSE auto.
2014 Ewok for 6 months, really really rubbish.
2008 FL2 for 185k miles, should have kept her.
2006 FL1 for 110k miles, brilliant car.
2000 FL1 for 100k miles, fell apart but started the LR bug


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