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DiscoSportDave said:
For peace of mind (and if i'd not joined this forum i'd have been none the wiser), I dropped the engine oil at 10k miles and refilled. The drain plug is accessible after removing 10 bolts holding the sump guard/cover. No need to jack the vehicle, enough space to crawl under. I did not change the oil filter - 1 because its awkward location / heat / lack of room, and 2 because i figured the less signs of fluid changes outside dealerships the better.
What arrangements did you make to reset your oil service counter? (seperately from your 2 year time-related service counter)
 
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If the car triggers on assumed oil condition then that's fine, but i'm still showing 20k miles as the point of first service (which won;t be far off 2 years given the recent reduction in use). The oil dilution on the factory fill after 10k miles was pretty low at 1.9%. With Covid and working from home i suspect it'll be higher on this oil
 

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Nor will they. The vehicle cannot and will not regenerate passively, at best, a motorway run at a steady 70mph will just delay the inevitable.

Please, understand that this variant will never EVER passively regenerate - it cannot. Every 100-120 miles, it will actively regenerate, and there is no way to change that parameter....it is predefined in the BCM, and depending on your journey type, can be as low as 70-80 miles between active regens.

My best (and only) advice is to connect an OBD tool that reads in real time your DPF soot loading, so that you know that the vehicle is doing or about to do an active regen. And keep driving it. Long journeys in between regens make no difference whatsoever, and never will. You are waiting in vain, and wasting time and diesel in the process.
 

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SarahStreet said:
Nor will they. The vehicle cannot and will not regenerate passively, at best, a motorway run at a steady 70mph will just delay the inevitable.

Please, understand that this variant will never EVER passively regenerate - it cannot. Every 100-120 miles, it will actively regenerate, and there is no way to change that parameter....it is predefined in the BCM, and depending on your journey type, can be as low as 70-80 miles between active regens.

My best (and only) advice is to connect an OBD tool that reads in real time your DPF soot loading, so that you know that the vehicle is doing or about to do an active regen. And keep driving it. Long journeys in between regens make no difference whatsoever, and never will. You are waiting in vain, and wasting time and diesel in the process.
I am grateful to SarahStreet for confirming my assertion that passive regeneration does not work on the AJ200D Discovery Sport, information that came to me originally from JLR Executive Office on 24th Octobr 2017. I had no idea, however, just how short the period between active regenerations actually was. This explains an awful lot.

VeryDiscoSport said:
Jaguar Land Rover have finally committed to a meaning for "driving style" and explained how normal driving, combined with the "hardware and architecture" differences referred to in the SCN, can't invoke passive DPF regeneration on this car. It is now time to join up the dots to gain a proper understanding of what the SCN meant by "hardware and architecture" differences.

" 'Typical' driving style as an average across customers is journeys of 15-30 minutes with a speed between 50 kmph and 100 kmph, which includes some drives of over an hour. The exhaust temperature achieved in normal driving is low and as such there is no passive regeneration and soot must be cleared through active regeneration. " Jaguar Land Rover, 24 October 2017.
Why is it so important that we have JLR's written word that passive regeneration doesn't operate? Answer: because this statement acknowledges that the DPF regeneration regime (as described by JLR on 15th May 2015 in its document, "Exhaust System - INGENIUM I4 2.0L Diesel - Diesel Particulate Filter - System Operation and Component Description") has never worked properly in any EU6 transverse 2.0 L SUV sold since Septembr 2015.

Thus we can demonstrate the existence of a sytemic fault. Therefore any one of these cars could be described as "not of satisfactory quality" within the meaning of section 9 Consumer Rights Act 2015.
 

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Attached is a PDI immediately after a successful completed active regeneration. You will note that Exhaust Bank 4 (which is where the action takes place) is cooling down still from 630° when actively regenerating, to a normal driving operating temperature of circa 220°....still not enough to burn soot passively.

Of greater concern is that the soot loading has jumped back up to 22% within 5 minutes of the regeneration successfully completing. Which means that all the soot is not entirely burning off during aforementioned regeneration time of 21 minutes. This particular example vehicle (17MY) will only travel 126 miles between active regens on average, and is immediately hamstrung by the fact that the filter is one fifth full (20%) almost immediately after a successfully completed active regeneration.

To correlate, the algorithm used to measure the oil service counter (not distance/miles to next service) deducts 330 miles from every successful regen. Which is why for every 100 miles that the vehicle travels, it drops by approximately 3 times that in the oil counter. The oil service counter is NOT to be trusted, and is purely a gimmick to hide a multitude of engineering and technical failures.

Change your oil every year, come what may. You would be absolutely certifiable not to!
 

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flycop2000 said:
I have just received the DPF full, visit your dealer message for the 3rd time! No warning, just straight to red.
Random longer journeys don't seem to have made any difference to the regeneration.
There is definitely something else at play here. Was yours the one that had a fault code saying something like "DPF Regeneration not possible"? To keep going straight to red highlights that something else is causing the DPF to load up because the car can't actively do a regeneration when it wants to. Hence it just builds up until it goes red.
I suggest changing dealership that you go to? Give someone else a good chance. Explain everything. It could be something simple like a sticking EGR valve or a sensor not connected properly that's causing it to be unable to regenerate the DPF.
 

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SarahStreet said:
and is immediately hamstrung by the fact that the filter is one fifth full (20%) almost immediately after a successfully completed active regeneration.
Most cars don't regenerate all the way down to nothing. It's inefficient to try and fully burn off the soot. It's a case of diminishing returns. The remaining soot doesn't cause hindrance to the exhaust flow etc.
 

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jtaylor2005 said:
SarahStreet said:
and is immediately hamstrung by the fact that the filter is one fifth full (20%) almost immediately after a successfully completed active regeneration.
Most cars don't regenerate all the way down to nothing. It's inefficient to try and fully burn off the soot. It's a case of diminishing returns. The remaining soot doesn't cause hindrance to the exhaust flow etc.
Yes, I agree. But the median is circa 10-14% remaining after fully completed active regeneration. This particular vehicle was compared against L462 (Discovery), L538 and L494, all 17-19MY - none of the others returned a soot loading of more than 12% after a completed regen. And just to throw another curved ball into the mix, a 19MY L550 (pre-facelift) threw a result of 9% soot loading. So some DPF's will perform better than others it would seem. 22%, whilst in tolerance, is not acceptable, and will cause the vehicle to regenerate far more often.
 

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Thanks to everyone for all the information.

Due to a change in work circumstances, I only travel a few miles back and forth to work now.

Do I need to go for a longer drive every week to get the DPF to regenerate? This was certainly not mentioned by the salesman when I bought the car!
 

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flycop2000 said:
Thanks to everyone for all the information.

Due to a change in work circumstances, I only travel a few miles back and forth to work now.

Do I need to go for a longer drive every week to get the DPF to regenerate? This was certainly not mentioned by the salesman when I bought the car!
I think this can finally be nailed by merging data from three sources... You need to allow it sufficient time for an active regeneration to complete once every "X" miles by driving for "Y" minutes at "Z" speed:

Z = constant speed between 40 mph and 70mph
Y = 20 minutes (engine hot) 40 minutes (starting from cold)
X = 70 to 120 miles (using SarahStreet's latest guidance.

The problem is that "X" can only be accurately determined using an OBD Application. But you could just start at 120 miles and adjust it downwards if you start seeing AMBER warnings.

Best of luck.
 

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Just a quick update.

Landrover assistance is due to pick up my car this afternoon and take it to the dealer however the DPF warning light has gone off today and the car is driving normally!
This is the 2nd time this particular fault has happened, each time the DPF warning light has stayed on for about a week!
The last time the Dealer couldn't find any fault ?
 

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Irrespective of the MIL illuminated or not, a fault ode will have been generated and stored.

To avoid the usual fob-off from the retailer, get the LRA tech to pull this code and include it on the report to the retailer. If he doesn't, the retailer will simply say "no fault found" without interrogating the vehicle. Ask for a copy of the report as well, as you may need it later on.
 

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LR tech said he found fault codes but did not say what, he will send me an email copy of his report. He also done some type of DPF regeneration, not exactly sure what but he took the car for a 15-20 min drive afterwards. He also said he done a software update.

I will post again when I receive the email.
 

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I forgot to say that my car was not taken back to the dealer yesterday, The very nice LR Tech man done the repair outside my house so not sure what type of regeneration he done, he did have my car battery connected to a socket on the front of his van while the work was done.
 

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The socket on the front of the van (Transit) or rear (Transporter) is a BSU (battery support unit). It has to be connected before any software updates are applied to the vehicle, as SDD (in your case) contacts the LR Servers via the Toughbook and VCI.

Have you had the report regarding which updates were applied to the vehicle?
 

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Don't forget this from JLR too.

Just helped with another successful rejection where 'Driving Stile" was the issue according to the Dealership./ Black Horse finance.

Result :
All finance cleared
Full deposit returned including cost of traded in vehicle
8% interest on deposit payed .

Sometimes you don't get an orange , and if you do 2.1 seconds isn't enough if your watching the road. Not just the codes that are important but the timing if said lights is too.

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