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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For reasons (below if you care but does it matter?) I need a direct-to-battery feed in the cabin of the car. With my TD5 Disco2, I was able to find an unused rubber bung in a hole through the bulkhead on the passenger side (UK car - left side! - I presume on a left-side-drive car this is used for Important Wires and there's a blank on the right) and it was not too fiddly to run a cable around from the battery box, through that hole, then along behind the trim on the tunnel to where the radio sits just behind the centre console.

Before I pop in to the dealer to chat about it next week I wonder if anyone has any input. I don't have my car yet - fingers crossed I pick it up next Friday. I *assume* the battery is up front under the bonnet though I know a lot of cars are now putting it in different places. (Under the passenger seat in my Defender has to be "for the win" for ease of adding new things, mind you!) As a stop-gap, does anyone know if the "*** lighter" sockets in the centre console, esp the "2nd row" one, are constant-live or go off with the mains?

Cheers.

Why? Radio - I'm an MSA rally marshall and I need a VHF radio set installed inside the car. This needs to work with the "mains" off, and all the radio experts say a direct-to-battery connection avoids interference and other problems, though I must admit I have run it off a "*** lighter" accessory socket before now to no ill effect.
 

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HI,
The battery is up front under the bonnet. The way the '*** lighters' work is a bit strange in my opinion. They come live when you unlock the car / open a door but then go off again after a few minutes if you do not start up. They also remain live for a few mintues after you lock / exit the vehicle.
Not sure if it's any help to you but there is a fuse box in the cabin behind the passenger glove box. I imagine the radio draws quite a bit of current.
Good luck. ;)
 

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Why don't you run a dual battery setup? As long as you install an isolator you don't need to worry about your 2-way draining your main battery either. Lots of people run them around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ozsport said:
Why don't you run a dual battery setup? As long as you install an isolator you don't need to worry about your 2-way draining your main battery either. Lots of people run them around here.
It's one option I'm considering. Actually, I wonder about using one of those "booster/jumpstart" devices, which can run 12v for ages if you don't connect it to a starter motor, and can re-charge from a "fagsocket" point.

There isn't much risk of the radio depleting the main battery to the point where it can't start the car, however, esp if you're alert to the possibillity and run the engine every couple of hours.
 

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ccomley said:
ozsport said:
Why don't you run a dual battery setup? As long as you install an isolator you don't need to worry about your 2-way draining your main battery either. Lots of people run them around here.
It's one option I'm considering. Actually, I wonder about using one of those "booster/jumpstart" devices, which can run 12v for ages if you don't connect it to a starter motor, and can re-charge from a "fagsocket" point.

There isn't much risk of the radio depleting the main battery to the point where it can't start the car, however, esp if you're alert to the possibillity and run the engine every couple of hours.
I suppose if it's just the radio it's probably OK, depending on the state of the battery (some people have had issues with theirs on the forum so far). Also depends if it's manual or auto - Flat battery on an auto is much more problematic than a manual!
 

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To save going through the bulkhead which will be a fiddle as access is difficult from inside, why not run a cable from the boot, my suggestion would be to use the permanent live fitted for the trailer harness either from the fuse board in the boot, or if the wiring is part fitted, ie to the multi plug behind the tool holder in the boot floor, direct from there. The benefit here will be it is fused as well even if you need to drop the fuse size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice idea. I nearly did that on my D2 before I found the bulkhead route. The fuse is not a issue - my direct cable has a fuse in both +ve and -ve legs right by the battery connectors. The only downside to using the trailer feed (I assume I can find it - anyone know) is it goes through assorted unknown connectors and boxes, which can potentially introduce interference. That said, if I can find it it'll be easy enough to tap it and *test* if it causes problems, and if not, it could be ideal/ I assume it's rated for enough current to charge a battery in a caravan so should cope with the radio and perhaps even amber flashers quite comfortably.
 

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The permanent live should do that easily , they normally run a 2.5mm wire, even if it does not you will have the option of using the ignition switched Fridge charge feed as well which is of similar power capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Indeed - just need to find it. Not having received my car yet, I can't go look. I bet if I started pulling inspection panels and linings out of the car in the show-room they'll get ticked. :)
 

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I will have a look a TOPix over the next day or so, I will be able to say what cable is what, also if the tow pack only includes the wiring up to the connector in the boot floor, it will be easy to work our what's what.
If it does not you may have to find the feed from the fuse board in the side of the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Moose said:
I will have a look a TOPix over the next day or so, I will be able to say what cable is what, also if the tow pack only includes the wiring up to the connector in the boot floor, it will be easy to work our what's what.
If it does not you may have to find the feed from the fuse board in the side of the boot.
Thanks. I haven't ordered the tow pack (if I need to pull something, I get the Defender out). Still, could be the wires are there just not the connector on the end - maybe a multi-plug or something.
 

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ccomley said:
Nice idea. I nearly did that on my D2 before I found the bulkhead route. The fuse is not a issue - my direct cable has a fuse in both +ve and -ve legs right by the battery connectors. The only downside to using the trailer feed (I assume I can find it - anyone know) is it goes through assorted unknown connectors and boxes, which can potentially introduce interference. That said, if I can find it it'll be easy enough to tap it and *test* if it causes problems, and if not, it could be ideal/ I assume it's rated for enough current to charge a battery in a caravan so should cope with the radio and perhaps even amber flashers quite comfortably.
Also assuming that the bus does not detect a trailer and start disabling parking sensors...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ozsport said:
Also assuming that the bus does not detect a trailer and start disabling parking sensors...
Wouldn't have occurred to me but yes, it must have some way to do that! Unless it relies on you turning the parking sensors off when you have a trailer hitched, or just ignoring the beeps when reversing a trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
GPC said:
Hi don't forget the following from the manual, page 257

View attachment 924

this relates to RF power output at various frequencies.

GPC
Hmm. I assumed that putting the antenna on the roof was just coz it gave the best ground plane. I'm looking at using a mount which goes around the edge of the boot lid, as the mag-mount isn't going to stay on the roof of the DS, what with it being aluminium and all. I had already considered that if I ever used Her Indoor's car for a rally, I would have to use the bonnet! The SLK has a polycarbonate roof, and, anyway, the bonnet area is bigger than the roof area on an SLK! :)
 

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ozsport said:
ccomley said:
Nice idea. I nearly did that on my D2 before I found the bulkhead route. The fuse is not a issue - my direct cable has a fuse in both +ve and -ve legs right by the battery connectors. The only downside to using the trailer feed (I assume I can find it - anyone know) is it goes through assorted unknown connectors and boxes, which can potentially introduce interference. That said, if I can find it it'll be easy enough to tap it and *test* if it causes problems, and if not, it could be ideal/ I assume it's rated for enough current to charge a battery in a caravan so should cope with the radio and perhaps even amber flashers quite comfortably.
Also assuming that the bus does not detect a trailer and start disabling parking sensors...
Tow electrics need dealer download to stop sensor bleeping when reversing with trailer attached, I think this is a fix to make you get the dealer to install the electrics, however if you are tapping of the live feed i would not think there will be any issue.
 
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