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UPDATE ON B PILLAR RATTLE

144K views 279 replies 74 participants last post by  JohnnyOxford 
#1 ·
Well my DS went in to my local dealer yesterday to deal with two items, one, the B Pillar rattle and two, the two yellow lines on screen when reversing did not bend as they did before after updating software due to Tow Bar fit.
Just got a phone call to say that land rover are aware of the B Pillar rattle and replacement part will be ordered and sent to my dealer, however that part needs to be welded, so will have to re book so that the body shop can have DS at later date to complete job, waiting time approx 2 weeks.
At the moment they are also waiting for Land Rover to return call regarding getting reversing lines to work on screen with Tow Bar fitted and skinny spare.
To be honest, not worried about reversing lines, used to drive coaches abroad and always used mirrors, but if they are supposed to be there, then why a not have them.
regards
tony

Got to pick DS back up in morning so will find out more detail, about part and the welding and will post back.
 
#227 ·
Andyd said:
Mine is back at the dealer for them to have another go at fixing the B pillar rattle. Explained that it may have to go to body shop for them to fix. Having read this thread I now know why. Is it worth speaking to LR Customer Services the car is just coming up to 2 years old.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Cheers

Andy
Before they start welding and chiselling make sure they check the gloss strips on the doors (front and back) they expand in heat and can tick too.

My reject was going to the body shop but I rejected the invasive repair as I'd only done 400 miles, whilst waiting for my replacement I found my drivers side was the gloss strip on the outside. I put neoprene tape down the inside of the front door on the overlap of the gloss strip and the tick went away.

One chap in Australia has just had the invasive chiselling on his car and it didn't sort his , the next dealer found it was the gloss strips , so his car went to body shop and was damaged for no reason.
Dealers are too quick to condem cars to invasive body shop work without doing proper checks first. You've nothing to loose by asking them to try this first.
Also make sure your doors are aligned first too as the gloss strip on front and rear rests on a seal on the pillar you can see this with doors open .

It's worth trying and mentioning this too your dealer.
 
#228 ·
Andyd said:
Mine is back at the dealer for them to have another go at fixing the B pillar rattle. Explained that it may have to go to body shop for them to fix. Having read this thread I now know why. Is it worth speaking to LR Customer Services the car is just coming up to 2 years old.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Cheers

Andy
Have a read through in this thread what I did fixed one side of mine , my replacement car arrived before I got round to the passenger side.

http://www.discosportforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4278&p=44987&hilit=Gloss+strip#p44987
 
#229 ·
This thread is enough to make me change my mind about ordering one to replace my Freelander 2, which is currently waiting to get back- end transmission whine fixed. Previous FL 2 had same whine:- rear bearing changed, then new rear diff, then new rear tyres, then another rear diff. Still whined on way home after all these fixes. Traded in for current last of the FL2s. I have had LR vehicles for nearly forty years and never had one that did not need major warranty work. P38A a large volume!
In that time we also had two Volvos (proper Volvo, not Ford) and five SAABs and never one warranty fix,and one minor recall for suspension bushes.
Should I get a DS or buy the extended warranty from LR and keep FL 2 (as a car, I like it)
I wonder if anyone at LR ever reads these forums.
PS- I didn't get where I am today by being sensible!
 
#231 ·
Barnsh said:
Andyd said:
Mine is back at the dealer for them to have another go at fixing the B pillar rattle. Explained that it may have to go to body shop for them to fix. Having read this thread I now know why. Is it worth speaking to LR Customer Services the car is just coming up to 2 years old.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Cheers

Andy
Before they start welding and chiselling make sure they check the gloss strips on the doors (front and back) they expand in heat and can tick too.

My reject was going to the body shop but I rejected the invasive repair as I'd only done 400 miles, whilst waiting for my replacement I found my drivers side was the gloss strip on the outside. I put neoprene tape down the inside of the front door on the overlap of the gloss strip and the tick went away.

One chap in Australia has just had the invasive chiselling on his car and it didn't sort his , the next dealer found it was the gloss strips , so his car went to body shop and was damaged for no reason.
Dealers are too quick to condem cars to invasive body shop work without doing proper checks first. You've nothing to loose by asking them to try this first.
Also make sure your doors are aligned first too as the gloss strip on front and rear rests on a seal on the pillar you can see this with doors open .

It's worth trying and mentioning this too your dealer.
Barnsh can you please add some photos if the mention areas? I am not sure if i understand correctly so some photos will be much helpful.
Thank you
 
#232 ·
Leoniums said:
Barnsh said:
Andyd said:
Mine is back at the dealer for them to have another go at fixing the B pillar rattle. Explained that it may have to go to body shop for them to fix. Having read this thread I now know why. Is it worth speaking to LR Customer Services the car is just coming up to 2 years old.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Cheers

Andy
Before they start welding and chiselling make sure they check the gloss strips on the doors (front and back) they expand in heat and can tick too.

My reject was going to the body shop but I rejected the invasive repair as I'd only done 400 miles, whilst waiting for my replacement I found my drivers side was the gloss strip on the outside. I put neoprene tape down the inside of the front door on the overlap of the gloss strip and the tick went away.

One chap in Australia has just had the invasive chiselling on his car and it didn't sort his , the next dealer found it was the gloss strips , so his car went to body shop and was damaged for no reason.
Dealers are too quick to condem cars to invasive body shop work without doing proper checks first. You've nothing to loose by asking them to try this first.
Also make sure your doors are aligned first too as the gloss strip on front and rear rests on a seal on the pillar you can see this with doors open .

It's worth trying and mentioning this too your dealer.
Barnsh can you please add some photos if the mention areas? I am not sure if i understand correctly so some photos will be much helpful.
Thank you
Hi
Although the thread I will point you to is for MY17, read through and at the end you will find what fixed mine, before handing it back. It now includes where to tape to solve the trim problem.
Appreciate it's a long thread but worth reading

https://www.discosportforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4278
 
#234 ·
I went nearly six months on my current DS before it started to tick. It's a replacement for the first one which survived just over one day. So maybe you should make your own judgement.
 
#235 ·
Natsweeb said:
Is two weeks without this problem good, then?
Mine started after 2 months but some on here have survived for over a year and a half only for it to develope well outside the statutory 30 days or 6 months for easy rejection.
When I say easy you still have to fight all the way in most cases through your dealer with little help from CRC, unless you kick up a huge fuss. How you are treated depends on your dealer.

JLR have admitted they have no fix to date, this is clear by an open ended repair bulletin which you can find on this forum.

Oh and they've told us at some stage through dealerships that it's fixed , it's not.
You pay your money , you take a chance.
 
#236 ·
#237 ·
That sounds nothing like mine, the best way to describe it is like someone lightly tapping a coin on the inside of the steel. More of a ticking than the creaking that yours sounds more like.

Ironically, as I posted last week, my B pillar noise seems to have all but gone and reappeared somewhere in the lower drivers door card/door bin area......nothing trim-wise is loose there, so I'm at a bit of a loss currently.
 
#238 ·
After 3 years and LR, CRC, the dealer all being involved in the end I had to roll over admit defeat and get rid of what was a very 'friday' car..... a customer lost, I shall never return after the way we were treated!
 
#239 ·
Badgerface said:
That sounds nothing like mine, the best way to describe it is like someone lightly tapping a coin on the inside of the steel. More of a ticking than the creaking that yours sounds more like.

Ironically, as I posted last week, my B pillar noise seems to have all but gone and reappeared somewhere in the lower drivers door card/door bin area......nothing trim-wise is loose there, so I'm at a bit of a loss currently.
Thank you
 
#240 ·
#241 ·
Apparently I also have the same tic tic noise.
Some days I can hear it only on the passenger's b pillar and some days only on drives. Of course there are times you can hear it on both sides..
The weird is that whenever I hear the noise from whatever side the temperature is always above 30* C and none of the car's side was looking directly to the sun.
So shouldn't be always ticking? Both sides? I really can't understand this.
My dealer says it can't be the b pillar and that some plastic trims making the noise.
 
#242 ·
Leoniums said:
Apparently I also have the same tic tic noise.
Some days I can hear it only on the passenger's b pillar and some days only on drives. Of course there are times you can hear it on both sides..
The weird is that whenever I hear the noise from whatever side the temperature is always above 30* C and none of the car's side was looking directly to the sun.
So shouldn't be always ticking? Both sides? I really can't understand this.
My dealer says it can't be the b pillar and that some plastic trims making the noise.
Hi, no the B pillar does not always tick. It is definitely dependent on the temperature.

What reason does your dealer have for saying that it can't be the B pillar?
 
#243 ·
Well I had some small accidents on both front doors which were repaired. At that time the guy from the dealer told me that probably is due the alignments although he never heard that noise. I got the car and after a day I had the tik noise from the driver's door. I called him back and he told me probably the doors need further alignments....
I went for vacations and even if the car was looking directly to the sun, day and night with more than 35*C the noise was still coming from the driver's pillar. The passenger's side was totally quite all this time.
Last week I mostly hear the noise from the passenger's side with 33*C ++ outside. This is really crazy.
Ok I have seen the video with the guy who is pushing the b pillar metal sheets and reproduce a noise (not sure if this is the same noise that I hear though) ... and I have also done this on my car.
But is it possible? I work with sheet metal constructions almost 20 years now... and I can't believe that this is due the b pillar construction. Maybe a combination? D@mn this car...
 
#244 ·
If it's from the inside of the b pillar metal sheets why they don't just open a hole and add some material like polyurethane in order to avoid the metal sheets touching each other?
If it was from the spot welded area where the door rubber is fitting in... it should be really easy to remake those spot welds and fix the problem.
I am pretty sure that is something else and that's why it can't be really located....
 
#245 ·
Why the hell they don't use the method of 3 with some noise recorders to find the exact area of the noise? At least the noise on my car is always coming from the same heigh.
They are missing something here
 
#246 ·
Changing sealant flows and pressing new panels fixed it for late MY18 , so there's no quick fix .
I'd reject every time if you have this well known issue, it's not as if they haven't admitted the fault.
Uk has good laws around this but not so in other countries to be fair.
 
#247 ·
But can I reject? The car was a 2nd hand from a German dealer which I import to Greece. 1/2016.
Not sure if I can and how.....
I will give some more tries to my dealer and if I can't do anything I will wait till I ll be able to replace it....
 
#248 ·
Leoniums said:
Well I had some small accidents on both front doors which were repaired. At that time the guy from the dealer told me that probably is due the alignments although he never heard that noise. I got the car and after a day I had the tik noise from the driver's door. I called him back and he told me probably the doors need further alignments....
I went for vacations and even if the car was looking directly to the sun, day and night with more than 35*C the noise was still coming from the driver's pillar. The passenger's side was totally quite all this time.
Last week I mostly hear the noise from the passenger's side with 33*C ++ outside. This is really crazy.
Ok I have seen the video with the guy who is pushing the b pillar metal sheets and reproduce a noise (not sure if this is the same noise that I hear though) ... and I have also done this on my car.
But is it possible? I work with sheet metal constructions almost 20 years now... and I can't believe that this is due the b pillar construction. Maybe a combination? D@mn this car...
Faulty construction , the aluminium sheets are place together with sealant ( dries rock hard when baked ) then body is baked to cure sealant to rock hard .
It's all on line about riv-bonding at JLR.
If the sealant flow is wrong or the panels don't quite fit, it's easy to see how temp expands the weekness which then appears .
It also appears on right or left side depending on steering as the body flexes. I could create mine at will by just steering left curve ( I heard it on right) , steering right curve ( I heard it on left ) . Then sometimes it was stereo .

The original three welds at top of b pillar are now supposedly reinforced with an additional two strip welds in manufacture.

Might be worth you guys downloading the latest fix doc, I have downloaded them since I got rid of the last one.....which I do believe was starting a faint tick too 😟😮
 
#249 ·
I'm not familiar with Greek law but here in her you would have a big fight to try and reject the car after such a long time and especially if it's been involved in an accident.
 
#250 ·
Leoniums said:
But can I reject? The car was a 2nd hand from a German dealer which I import to Greece. 1/2016.
Not sure if I can and how.....
I will give some more tries to my dealer and if I can't do anything I will wait till I ll be able to replace it....
You could try the taping up the doors fix , that temporarily shut one side of my car up
Details are on another thread. Either MY 16 b pillar or MY 17 bpillar threads will show you this.
Running rattle tape up the inside of the training edge of the front doors overlapping the plastic black exterior trim edge , there's a picture to show you where to stick it on those threads too.
That's kept a few quiet where it was the finishers and not even the b pillar.
 
#251 ·
Chippy said:
I'm not familiar with Greek law but here in her you would have a big fight to try and reject the car after such a long time and especially if it's been involved in an accident.
That's true , depends if it was body shop approved repair I guess??
 
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